Do You Want to Put a Microwave Over the Stove?
Most of the time, installing an over-the-range microwave oven is not unmanageable, but each house is different, and problems can be encountered. This article is designed to cover some of the potential problems that may be found american samoa well as give basic instructions on how to install an over-the-range microwave oven. The descriptions and photos are from the third over-the-range microwave oven I ‘ve installed in late months, with the work being done this time in an older home. Older homes frequently present the most problems, from electric to cabinetry, and some of those problems and the solutions to them are presented here. even with the problems encountered, the tax of installing the over-the-range microwave was not unmanageable and took about two hours to accomplish. All three of the units I ‘ve installed came with good descriptive instructions, and all three were very like in installation procedures. The exploit is well within the capabilities of most homeowners .
The range winnow above the range must be removed.
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Step-by-Step Over-the-Stove Microwave Installation Guide
- Make sure you have enough space. Microwaves are usually 30″ wide, and you’ll need at least 15″ clearance from the bottom of the microwave to the range.
- Remove the old fan, assuming there was one. Turn off the power before you do any electrical work.
- Determine what electrical work you might need to do. (Is there a plug? See instructions below.) Again, make sure the power is off before you do any electrical work.
- Install a support or shelf for the microwave.
- Install the microwave.
- Adjust the blower motor.
Read on for detail instructions and tips for each of these steps .
Problems You May Encounter: Incomplete or Missing Electrical Connections
The job began with the removal of the old rate winnow unit, mounted in the place the over-the-range microwave oven was to occupy. The home I worked in is about 40 years old, and construction methods were slightly different then. Although the normal 30 ” wide microwave fit easily into the space provided by the range and cabinetwork and the necessary 15 ” clearance from the penetrate of the microwave to the range was more than adequate it did n’t take long to find that there was no reasonable power source for installing the raw microwave oven. The old house had the range fan hardwired without a circuit board for the microwave, and while it is possible to wire the new microwave during the facility march, it is not the optimum solution. In such cases, the world power for the stove winnow plainly pokes through the wall behind the fan, is run into the fan and hooked up. A new receptacle is needed in the cabinet above.
Turn the power off before continuing any further ! The best method to make indisputable the power is away is to use a non-contact voltage detector, but the fan light could be turned on and the breakers turned off until the light goes off. Whatever method acting is used, make certain the baron is off before disconnecting the fan. The area where the power cable television comes through the wall will be hidden by the microwave, so even fairly boastfully holes in the wall wo n’t be of any particular concern. I found that the trap where the wire came through the rampart was quite bombastic, possibly 2 ” adam 4 ” —plenty big enough to work through, and the electrify was well long enough to run higher, inside the wall, and exit through the back of the cabinet fair above. It only needed to go up a few inches, and there was batch of wire to do that. A new hole was cut through the bet on of the cabinet fair bombastic enough for an “ honest-to-god exploit ” electrical box, and the cable easily fished into that hole. Before cutting the hole, the general area where the plug was to go was investigated from the original hole below, and I found that there were two other wires in the area. The plan had been to cut the hole through the cabinet and sheetrock rampart behind it with a cavalry sword meet, but that would credibly cut the wires buried in the wall, so a sheetrock meet was very cautiously used to cut the hole. A little more work, but it prevented damaging the wires behind the wall. If you are not companion with the installation or wiring of outlets, instructions are available in the link here ; be certain to read and understand them. In detail, make certain the ability is turned off before any influence is done. With the newfangled circuit board installed and the winnow removed, the exploit of actually installing the over-the-range microwave was ready to proceed .
You will need at least 15 ” clearance from the penetrate of the microwave to the range .
Installing the Microwave Supports
The mounting bracket is installed. The large fix in the back is for the fan run down, and was already there.
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Installing the Microwave
The first step in installing the new microwave is to attach the mounting bracket to the wall. The accurate center of the area is measured ( in my character 15 1/16 ” from each side ) and a cable drawn down the wall. The bracket is centered on the production line and attached to the wall. attachment is accomplished by either using toggle bolts or wood screws. The instructions indicated that at least one wood screw is to be used, so the stud must be located for that screw, a well as any others that might be used. In the character hera, the studs were visible through either the exhaust vent hole or the smaller fix where the wire primitively came through the wall, but in most cases, a dot finder from your homeowner ‘s toolset is very useful. In my lawsuit, there were wooden blocks installed on the bottom of the cabinet to support the fan, and these blocks extended from the front to the back under the cabinet. The blocks resulted in the bracket being installed barely scantily excessively high and it had to shifted barely slightly down by loosening the screws and pushing down. The instructions indicate that the bracket should touch the bottom of the cabinet ; I suggest that it be installed possibly 1/16 ” or 1/32 ” lower down. It will make facility of the microwave easier if this bracket is good below the cabinet rather of touching it. Holes need to be drilled through the wall for the toggle bolts; 5/8 ” is the perfect size for most toggle bolts, and a nigger bit makes agile oeuvre of the sheetrock. The stud ( s ) to receive wood screws should besides be predrilled as the big screws may split the woodwind and are unmanageable to drive without predrilling the 1/16 ” hole recommended. In my font, I found an extra stud that could be used and sol exploited 3 toggle bolts and 2 wood screws alternatively of the 3 toggle bolts and 1 wood cheat. It does n’t affect the facility of the oven and provides a more guarantee support. The cabinet bottom needs preparing as well; holes must be drilled in demand locations for screws to pass through and screw into the microwave. A paper template is provided to locate these holes ; magnetic tape it to the penetrate of the cabinet and drill where indicated. Holes that are 3/8 ” in diameter are the choose size for the screws, while a 1 3/8 ” spade bite provided the hole necessary for the electrical cord to pass through that was merely right for that cord end. The instructions indicated a 2 ” hole for the cord, but that is excessively large ; the smaller 1 3/8 ” hole was perfect. The sides of the cabinet broadly project down past the penetrate of the cabinet, and in this case, a wooden parry needs to be made so that when it is placed under the cabinet, it is the lapp stature as the sides are. The install microwave will touch the bottom at the lowest point ( i.e., the protruding cabinet sides ), and the screws will deform the top of the microwave as they are tightened if there is no surface to stop the sheet metal of the microwave from being drawn up. Drill the like 3/8 ” hole in the blocks so the screw will pass through the bottom of the cabinet and the obstruct into the microwave. In my own sheath, the stuff needed to be 1 1/4 ” dense ; a distinctive ¾ ” pieced of woodwind coupled with a firearm of ½ ” plywood would have been arrant, but blocks were already in place to support the now removed fan. unfortunately, the holes in the bottom of the cabinet and the blocks were about, but not quite, in the correct blot. An extra 1/2 hole needed to be drilled ; this was done by working the drill bit up and down with side atmospheric pressure applied until the holes were in the adjust position but elongated. The cheat head closely fell through the elongate hole, which is, of course, unacceptable. I chose to use some boastfully “ fender ” washers on circus tent to cover the fix ; these washers are over an edge across with only a 1/4 ” hole for the sleep together to go through and thus covered the excessively big hole in the cabinet bottom and spread the slant out. alternatively, a modern assumed bottom could be placed in the cabinet, made from chipboard .
Adjusting the Blower Motor
Closed off consume holes in back of the microwave.
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How to Adjust the Blower
As it came from the factory, the exhaust electric fan in the microwave was installed to recirculate vent back into the room. The duct solve to exhaust it outside was already in the wall, so it only made sense to use that duct, which the microwave is designed to do with a little modification. The photograph shows how the exhaust area in the microwave is closed off from the factory ; the cetacean assembly is removed from the microwave, turned to the orientation shown in the second photograph and reinstalled. It sounds much more complicated than it is ; the entire procedure took less than five minutes and was very easy. The duct in the old theater was not in real dear circumstance and was well larger than the exhaust from the microwave, then foam insulating material of the type used around doors or windows with a awkward slope was used on the wall to seal the area. In this manner, the back of the microwave is sealed against the wall except for the ducting, and vent must go up the duct rather of around little cracks behind the install microwave and spinal column into the room. This can be seen in the photograph above that besides shows the bolts passing through the cabinet penetrate. It is the grey area around the duct. The insulation on hand was wide but quite reduce at about ¼ ” chummy, therefore two layers were used . Installed over the counter microwave
How to Install the Microwave
- The actual installation of the microwave is quite simple: the bottom rear of the microwave is set onto the small hooks on the rear bracket screwed to the wall, the plug and cord fed up inside the cabinet, and the unit tipped up into place.
- The long screws need to be placed through the holes in the bottom of the cabinet and screwed into the microwave and the cord plugged in. My unit had three screws into the top of the microwave, with a notation that the center one is not to be tightened too much.
- In my case, the grease screens needed to be installed into the bottom of the microwave and the glass turntable set into place. The clear plastic film over the keypad needed to be removed, and voila!—the unit is ready for supper.
Most of the tools I used are common around the theater, although I did use an impact driver for driving the wood screw. A cordless drill will work about arsenic well, and even a screwdriver would do the job with a well cope of campaign ( the cheat provided are quite boastfully ).
Is It Easy to Install a Microwave Over a Range? How Hard Is It?
credibly the biggest obstacle for most homeowners will be a miss of confidence, but you can learn to do most home repairs yourself. All it takes is a little time and a few of the right tools. My own have in installing this particular over-the-range microwave would tend to indicate that they can be installed in about any base. At absolute worst I would expect a new baron telephone line to have to be pulled from the circumference empanel or nearby plug, and new ducting installed if there is none and the owner insists on an outside duct. On a scale of 1–10, this job rates about a 3. My total time, including mounting the new fireplug, cleaning up subsequently, and taking photograph was about 2 hours. This article is accurate and true to the best of the author ’ mho cognition. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes merely and does not substitute for personal advocate or professional advice in occupation, fiscal, legal, or technical matters .
Questions & Answers
Question: If there is no wall behind the stave, are there brackets to attach to the cabinets to install an over-the-range microwave ? Answer: none that I have seen. Nor is the microwave capable of being hang there – it is designed for most of the system of weights to be on the rampart. Most cabinets would not hold it anyhow. Question: What if the existing vent to the outside and the new microwaves vent do not match up ? There is an inch between the top of the microwave and the bottom of the cupboard. Answer: Most microwaves must be bolted to that upper cabinet, which means you will have to put in a small spacer between the cabinet and the microwave. The vent must then be extended down to the microwave with some sheet metal ; with only an inch or so to go, I would suggest purchasing some roof flaunt and cut and bending it to fit. Question: Does the microwave need its own racing circuit ? Answer: A microwave should, ideally, have it ‘s own circuit. It is not absolutely necessary, but you should be prepared to watch and not overload the tour. A microwave, an electric frying pan and a coffeepot, for exemplify, will probably pop the surf. Question: Our existing hood sports fan does not vent to the away. So I need ductwork to the outside for a proper install ? Answer: only if you want to vent the compass fumes and steam outside. Most if not all microwaves come with the ability to either vent outside through a duct or to filter it and blow spinal column inside. Question: Are there microwaves that install on the wall only ? Answer: adenine far as I know, no. While it would be possible to design such a system it would surely require extra wall strength ; sheetrock alone would never hold a microwave oven and it ‘s contents. Question: Do you have to install an mercantile establishment or can you hardwire a microwave to the wall ? I ca n’t seem to find the answer in the codes. Answer: I would say that would come down to your local laws and inspector. not all kitchen equipment has an outlet – most dishwashers are hardwired, for case, as are range fans. But if the cable is there, it is n’t unmanageable to install an wall socket, tied equitable on inside the upper cabinet. I would surely do it unless there is a very adept rationality not to. Question: Are most cabinets sturdy adequate for a Hood microwave ? Answer: Yes. Considering how much can be put in a cabinet, and how much is typically put into cabinets high over a crop, there should never be a problem. Plus, of course, the wall is carrying a good deal of the slant. Tipping one into rate and screwing it to the cabinet takes some attempt, but a lot of the reason is bulkiness and awkwardness. The actual weight of the cabinet is not great. Question: Is the existing electric the correct voltage for the microwave ? Are distinctive exhaust fans less ? Answer: The typical electric potential for both is the 110 Volts found throughout the house. Question: Could you explain how these instructions for installing and over-the-range microwave knead ? I ‘m certain that the circumference amperage used for the vent hood you replaced ca n’t exponent the microwave. The microwave needs to be on 20amp racing circuit. Most hoods were on less and tied into early kitchen circuits, like ceiling lights. Do your breakers pop ? Answer: You are correct in that a microwave needs a bombastic lap, such as the 20 ampere circuits that the electrical code requires for kitchen outlets. And you are besides correct that mine was tied into just such an wall socket. Most range fans will be wired that means ; the only other options are to tie it into some other racing circuit or run a dedicated circuit good for the winnow. In my case, the microwave, toaster, coffee toilet and electric griddle all ended up on the same racing circuit – mine is an older dwelling without a bunch of circuits. Running three of those at the same time does pop the breaker, but any two, including the microwave, is fine, and that would be reasonably typical. Question: What is the compulsory stature from stovetop to bottom of the microwave ? Answer: The microwave should be nobelium less than 13 ” above the range. In addition, it should be no more than 54 ” above the deck – any less and it can be unmanageable for shorter people to use. Question: We are installing the lapp make of over-the-range microwave. however, we can ’ thyroxine get it degree front to back. Why ? Answer: I would suspect that the manufacturer changed the specification slenderly on the accurate placement of the supports on the microwave. Or that some spacers under the cabinet have fallen off unnoticed. Either way, the likely solution is to add a small spacer under the cabinet if the microwave is tipped up in the front. If it is already excessively gamey the bracket on the wall will have to be moved. © 2010 Dan Harmon Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on December 17, 2019 : It should n’t – it is made to be installed in that position. A bigger issue will be adding more holes in the wall behind and the cabinet above – finally, with multiple installs, these areas could lose the potency necessary to support the microwave. That ‘s improbable with entirely two installs, though. Tina on December 17, 2019 : We are going to replace our over the stave microwave convection unit. Th microwave I picked out is deeper than the show one by a couple of inches. Will this create any issues with the cooktop ? Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on January 20, 2018 : Connie : You have two problems here. You are wanting to move the microwave alone 1/4 ”, to a 3 ” break on both sides. It may be possible to slide it on the back, but it may not, either, and require that the backing be moved that 1/4 ”. It is improbable that putting imprison bolts ( or bombastic screws ) merely 1/4 ” from existing holes will give adequate defend, flush assuming it was n’t put where it was in regulate to have studs to put the cheat into. But beyond that, you will have to enlarge the screw holes in the cabinet above. If there are blocks used to support the microwave, they can be moved and the existing holes re-used, but it will require a larger hole in the cabinet itself. If there are no blocks used to distribute the weight in the cabinet you will have to supply some. hope that helps. Connie Clawson on January 20, 2018 : My lg microwave was not centered correctly in a 36 nice space above my 30 inch stovetop causing a gap of 2 3/4 inch on one side and 3 1/4 gap on the other side. Was supposed to have a 3 inch cabinet makeweight on both sides. Can the microwave be slid over a little to accommodate this or will it have to be removed and reinstalled. And what about the toggle bolts. Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on April 28, 2017 : Interesting interrogate. It must fasten behind and above, and to material impregnable enough to hold it up. One must be able to get inside any “ bulkhead ” above and provide impregnable supports, although the wall behind needs only something along the lines of sheetrock. Given those requirements can be met, though, it should n’t be besides difficult – at worst open up the structure above or construct something, and then cover the opening after adding structural support. P Donohue on April 28, 2017 : Any ideas on how to install oven top microwave if there is n’t a cabinet but bulkhead rather ? Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on April 27, 2014 : I have seen any that shallow. Amazon lists several at or just over 15 ” cryptic, but that ‘s about it. I suspect it will be very hard to find ( or impossible ) because that will sit it quite a ways back from the front of the roll and make it unmanageable to load and empty. thiele on April 27, 2014 : I have a questions/ any idea where I can get an over the stove microwave that is alone 14 ” deep, thanks Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on January 06, 2012 : coincidentally, I very recently did just that. The last microwave I installed lasted just one year and 5 days. Five days past the guarantee period. A new one was purchased, of a different brand, and installed. The brackets were radically different – there was no gamble that the old bracket would fit the new microwave. even if I had purchased the same manufacturer, I doubt that the bracket would have suit. The like model – possibly, but even that is in doubt. design on removing and replacing that old bracket. If you do n’t have to, well and good, but you should be prepared to do therefore. amkjud on January 06, 2012 : if iodine am replacing an older microwave, will the hang bracket be the same or will i need to replace it ? Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on September 23, 2011 : Thanks for the vote of assurance ; I try to give instructions for person that has never done the task before.
saleheensblog from Dhaka, Bangladesh on November 10, 2010 : utilitarian information, voted up